Fresh takes on classics include chicken schnitzel, made with Mary’s chicken breast and served with a crunch of frisée Caesar showered with pecorino cheese and radish slices, and handmade rigatoni with braised short rib, crème fraîche, and gremolata. Cap it all off with desserts like sourdough crème brûlée and seasonal Basque-style cheesecake, which during my most recent visit was flavored with Meyer lemon and cloaked in a fresh strawberry coulis.
The ever-changing cocktail menu and wine list highlight small producers. Cocktails include the citrus-forward Risky Business made with Mal Bien mezcal, bitter Italian aperitivo, fresh lime and grapefruit juices, house-made vanilla oil, and a touch of salt.
Happy hour is from 5 to 6 p.m. daily and all night on Monday, with discounts on a bar-bites menu and selected cocktails, beer, and wine. The double smash burger with bacon jam, bread-and-butter-pickled jalapeños, and crispy onions is a winner. Note: The entire staff shares a mandatory 18% service charge. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.