Restaurant review: Crudo Cervicheria, Palm Springs

The fact that approximately 100 miles separate Palm Springs from the ocean doesn’t mean the sea’s culinary pleasures can’t be found in this desert city. Crudo Cervicheria is a seafood-centric bistro with fish offerings so fresh, it’s hard to believe that the sounds of breaking waves and flying seagulls cannot be heard nearby.

Defining the interior space, a sleek bar is large and comfortable. But for an idyllic atmosphere, seek out the charming rear patio, where mountain views line the horizon and a firepit crackles with flames after dark.

Consider the cocktail list, not only for its well-crafted drink selection but also because everything is priced at $9, a shockingly great deal recognizable to anyone who has ordered a restaurant drink in the past few years. Some wines can cost a bit more.

The menu’s centerpiece is ceviche. Of the 5 tasty selections, I favored the creamy salmon version with tangy capers and diced onion. Ranchero ceviche, a Mexican-inspired combination of tantalizing white basa and zesty pico de gallo, was a close runner-up.

Scrumptious ‘ahi nachos—wonton chips layered with sizable slices of tuna, avocado, jalapeño, and a healthy drizzle of crema—are a must.

I’ll absolutely return for the calamari steak sandwich—a thick breaded slab of calamari with pickled cabbage and a spicy mayo spread between slices of perfectly golden-toasted bread.